Weighty matters

Understanding paper weights

When you first start working with paper, the different types, finishes and, especially, weights, can be quite confusing. More often than not, you can pick up two different brands of 60 lb. text weight paper and have them be completely different thicknesses - not to mention how much difference there is between a sheet of 60 lb. text paper and a sheet of 60 lb. cover stock!

There is a simple explanation as to why these variances occur, but first, let me give you an overview of the systems used to calculate paper weight.

Paper weights are measured in one or both of two different systems: Imperial and Metric. The Imperial system uses pounds (lbs. or sometimes just the # symbol) as the unit of measure, while the Metric system measures in grams per square metre (g/m² or gsm).

Imperial System

A paper’s weight in the Imperial system is calculated based on the weight of a ream (500 sheets for the most part, but can sometimes be 1,000 sheets) of paper in its original, uncut (base) size. Generally, for text weight, this uncut size is 25” x 38” and for bond weight (commonly used as printer paper), it is 17” x 22”. For cover (aka card) stock, the uncut size is usually 20” x 26”. The difference in uncut sizes is why a sheet of 80 lb. text weight paper will differ in thickness from a sheet of 80 lb. cover stock paper.

Because of the lack of standardization in base sizes, it can sometimes be confusing to work with the Imperial system. It is, however, the most prevalent system used in North America, so it’s a good idea to become familiar with it. If you’re ordering paper and are unsure of whether you’re going to be happy with the weight or quality, order samples. Many companies will offer sample books and swatches either for free or for a minimal charge. I always order swatches/samples myself (especially when I’m working on special projects, like wedding invitations!). It’s the only way to make sure I’m happy with the weight, look, colour, quality and feel of the paper I work with.

Metric System

The Metric system, on the other hand, is standardized. Since it deals with the weight of one square metre of the paper, it doesn’t matter what type of paper (i.e. text, cover, tissue, etc.) is being measured. Plus there’s no need to worry about what the base size of the particular paper is and how that affects the weight. As a result, it gives a more accurate indication of how thick a paper is – as long as you are familiar with the system and how heavy certain types of paper are, of course. I know many professional printers who prefer to use the Metric system for this reason.

Paper Weight Chart

This chart shows the basic conversion between the Imperial system and the Metric system. Remember that this is just a guide to give a basis for comparison - due to the variances in thickness that can happen with the Imperial system, it is impossible to have a completely standardized conversion chart.

Paper Type	Imperial Weight (lbs.)	Metric Weight (g/m2)
20 lb. Bond/Copy (most common printer paper weight)	20	75
60 lb. Text	60	89
24 lb. Bond/Copy (often sold as “premium” or “high quality” printer paper)	24	90
70 lb. Text	70	104
28 lb. Bond	28	105
32 lb. Bond	32	120
80 lb. Text	80	120
65 lb. Cover	65	175
80 lb. Cover	80	215
105 lb. Cover	105	285

I hope this post has helped answer the questions you may have had about paper weight. Have a great weekend and we’ll see you again next week!

Tricks and Techniques: Dry Embossing

Happy Friday, everyone!

Today on Card Tricks, we are going to be looking at dry embossing, a simple technique using stencils and a stylus to create stunning raised images.

Like heat embossing, this technique adds texture and elegance to your designs. Unlike heat embossing, dry embossing uses the paper itself to create the designs, not any added embossing powders or inks. While it can be a more subtle design element, the effect is just as beautiful.

Supplies:

·      Piece of card stock (light colours are best to start with, since the light shines through them as you are working, making it easier to see what you are tracing)

Equipment:

·      Embossing stencil

·      Double-ended embossing stylus

·      Tape

·      Piece of wax paper

·      Window (with good light) or light box

Directions:

1.     Tape the stencil to the window (or light box, if you have one).

2.     Tape the piece of card stock face down over the stencil image of your choice. Rub the wax paper lightly over the card stock (this helps with the gliding of the stylus during the tracing).

3.     Slowly and carefully trace over the image with the stylus with a light, steady and even pressure. Use the small end of the stylus for the intricate details and the large end for the larger details. Do not press too hard or you will tear the card stock.

4.     Remove the card stock and stencil from the window and carefully take off the tape. Turn the card stock over to see your finished embossed design.

I hope you all have a great week. I’m trying to get over a bout of something nasty, so I plan on taking it easy for a few days, myself. As a result, I have not decided what to do for next week’s post, so it will be a surprise for all of us. See you then!

Tricks and Techniques: Heat Embossing

Got a special occasion coming up that requires a beautiful and absolutely stunning card design? Of all the techniques out there for paper crafting, nothing says elegant more than embossing. The shiny and smooth raised surface of the embossed design on a piece of high-quality card stock is sophistication at its very best.

When I was first introduced to embossing by my design teacher in college, I fell in love with it instantly. He told us about printers being able to do it for bulk orders (it was an advertising course, so, of course, our needs would have been for elegant marketing materials or, perhaps, business cards) and showed us the difference between the two types available: the more expensive version which embossed the paper and added ink to the raised surfaces so that you could see and feel the reverse image on the other side of the paper; and the more cost-effective version where only the ink is raised, not the paper.

Imagine my delight when I discovered heat embossing and dry embossing for paper crafting. I had no idea that there was a way to emboss on a smaller scale at home! Today’s post will cover heat embossing with stamps, while next week’s post will walk through the steps of dry embossing with stencils. I’ve been having a lot of fun with both techniques and I hope you will too.

Supplies:

·      Piece of card stock big enough to fit your stamped design (any colour)

Equipment:

·      Acrylic stamp in the design of your choice

·      Acrylic stamp mount

·      Embossing stamp pad

·      Embossing powder in the colour of your choice

·      Small paint brush

·      Heat tool (like this one)

·      Two sheets of scrap text weight paper

·      Heat-resistant surface (I used a wooden cutting board)

Directions:

1.     Fold the two pieces of scrap paper in half to make a crease down the middle of each. Place them beside each other on a sturdy surface with the crease placed so that the paper will fold upward. Put the piece of card stock on top of one of the pieces of paper.

2.     Gather all of the equipment together. You’ll need to work quickly, so having everything ready and within easy reach is a good idea. Plug in the heat tool (do not turn it on yet) and place it beside the heat-resistant surface you are using. Put all the rest of the equipment by the two pieces of scrap paper.

3.     Mount the acrylic stamp on the stamp mount.

4.     Saturate the stamp evenly with the embossing stamp pad. Press the stamp on to the card stock, using firm and even pressure.

5.     Cover the stamped image with embossing powder. Tap the card stock on to the scrap paper to remove the excess powder. If there’s any loose powder remaining on the card stock, use the paint brush to carefully brush it off on to the scrap paper.

6.     Move the card stock to the heat-resistant surface. Turn on the heat tool and hold it about two inches above the image. Slowly move the nozzle in a circular motion until all of the powder is evenly melted with a glossy, raised finish. Wave the card stock a couple of times to set the image, then set it aside until it is cool.

7.     Turn off and unplug the heat tool and allow it to cool on a heat-resistant surface.

8.     Wash the stamp and stamp mount with warm, soapy water.

9.     Return the excess embossing powder to its container by placing the bottle on the piece of scrap paper that doesn’t have powder on it. Carefully lift the other piece of paper over the bottle’s mouth, using the paper’s crease to help funnel the excess powder into the bottle. If any powder spills, repeat the process by reversing the functions of each piece of scrap paper (i.e. the one that was the funnel is now the one that holds the bottle and vice versa).

Tips:

·      Always use clean stamps.

·      For best results, be sure to use firm, even pressure when stamping the image.

·      Ensure that all stamps are cleaned with warm, soapy water before storing.

·      To avoid scorching the image or the card stock, be sure to constantly move the heat tool in circles and keep it at least two inches from the surface.

·      If the card stock curls, heat the back of the card stock and then wave it a few times through the air. Place the card stock under a heavy book and press for five to ten minutes.

I hope you all will have as much fun with heat embossing as I have had. It took me a few practices runs to get it right, but my persistence certainly paid off and I’m so happy with the results.

Have a fantastic weekend and be sure to come back next week for a tutorial on dry embossing. See you then!